It took me a while to decide this, because I got so excited by lots of what I saw at London Fashion Week. But finally! A little belatedly! Wolf Whistle's Top Three for Autumn/Winter 09.
3. Nathan Jenden
(View full collection here.)
I don't know how much of Nathan Jenden was actually newnewnew but I really, utterly don't care. Yeah, it was 80s inspired like everything else so far has been, but I was still in love with every look. Tailored suiting with bondage straps (re-evaluating my vendetta against trousers as we speak... errr, type), fierce colour block pencil skirts, exposed over-sized zips, sheer panels, pleating (oh gosh, such pleating!), origiami folds: it was basically a list of things I like to look at. Yes, there was rather a lot of black, but it was a focused and well thought-out black. And it was sexxxy!
As much as I love fashion, I'm no-ones ideal customer because I'm a broke student. But if I had money, there would definitely be a few things from Nathan Jenden working their way to me. It's not a perfect collection but I want to wear it. And isn't that the point, ultimately?
2. Erdem
(View full collection here.)
In a season full of sexy bandage dresses and sly (and not-so-sly) winks to the 80s, it was refreshing to see a collection that defined femininity in a different way. A little girl's empire waist silhouette paired with a grown womens idea of decoration meant the dresses were cutesy without being sickening and adult without being too serious.
Love black lace over red duchesse satin, love tiny flowers hand-embroidered, love sharp shoulders and billowing skirts. It's just so beautiful!
1. Christopher Kane
(View full collection here.)
Part
and parcel of being in a recession means that some designers will
automatically look towards a new austerity, whilst others will get
louder and brighter to compensate. Christopher Kane started out in a
neon glow of bandage dresses and has now toned it right right down, to
sheer and neutrals and just flashes of sparkle, but it's still something amazing. It doesn't feel another attempt to make sense of the times but rather a worthy progression of his talents.
Sheers tamed, ruffles to flatter and a new take on the motorcycle jacket made being Kane's "twisted sister" a very attractive prospect indeed.
This collection for me was a grower, in the same way that an album you're not sure about slowly turns into one of your all time favourites. At first I thought it was lovely,but not supersonic, until I found myself going back to look at that appliqued organza ribbon dress again, and then re-scrolling through the whole collection. He is right at the top of my "Can't Wait For" list every season.
Highly commended (i.e. Spent ages deliberating which to include or not!):
Basso & Brooke
Holly Fulton
Louise Goldin
Milan next!
I love Nathan!
Posted by: Miss at la Playa | 04 March 2009 at 16:54
love the last christopher kane, and i'm pretty sure not JUST because of stam. ;)
Posted by: R | 04 March 2009 at 22:09
There was so much to love at London for my first ever LFW! I agree with your picks, even with Christopher Kane who has blown up in terms of exposure, even here in New York-- and one buyer that I talked to said that the fact that Kane switches gears so quickly design-wise that it makes buyers nervous because he jumps into a brand new thing every season. What might make him the darling of editorial may not make him a popular choice with retailers, you see!
Posted by: dreamsequins | 05 March 2009 at 15:27
B&B was my favourite of LFW - Keyla x
Posted by: Keyla | 06 March 2009 at 03:21